The sleepy little village of Yelapa, Mexico appears like a dream as our water taxi speeds south from Puerto Vallarta along the coast of Banderas Bay. We round a promontory and there it is, a perfect crescent scooped out of the land, it’s all azure sea and golden sand, a smattering of small boats bobbing rhythmically in the gentle surf. The beach is lined with palapas and palm trees. The El Tuito river empties into the sea at the south end of the beach where pastel colored buildings of all sizes dot the steeply forested hillside. Beyond town is tropical jungle as far as the eye can see. This was our introduction to Yelapa.

In the language of the indigenous Huichol people of the area Yelapa means “of the waters”.  Yelapa is basically only accessible via boat, so in essence it is an island (there’s a very rough dirt road that links the town to the outside world but only the hardiest of 4-wheel drive vehicles dare to make the trip, in the rainy season it’s impassible). The narrow cobblestone streets of the town wind up and down along the hillside (I say “streets” as these are really just extra wide sidewalks). The only motorized modes of transport are small motorcycles and ATVs that can drive through anything. Most people simply walk. No cars, no traffic, no stoplights. Is this paradise or what?

Our lodging is at Casa Lolita, one of two charming little cottages a short stroll from the beach. We’re surrounded by trees; butterflies and birds abound. The bird diversity here is impressive. I observed thirty different species but there are many, many more. The most spectacular bird I saw was the golden-cheeked woodpecker. This medium-sized bird is a feast for the eyes; black and white horizontal stripes along its back and tail ending in a burst of golden feathers along its neck and face and topped with a ruby red crown. On our first day here I listened to two of them chatter to one another while a third excavated a perfectly circular hole in a dead coconut palm. There’s the stunning kiskadee with its creamy white crown, raccoon-like eye mask and lemon yellow belly. There are rainbow colored scarlet macaws and  bright green parakeets too. At the river mouth I observed four types of egrets (great, cattle, little blue and bluish red), a kingfisher an ibis and a black-crowned night heron. On our last day here I spotted a tiny ferruginous pygmy owl. Owls are difficult to spot, so I considered this sighting particularly special. For a bird enthusiast like myself Yelapa is as good as it gets!

Iguanas are everywhere but can be difficult to find in the trees, so perfect is their camouflage and lack of movement. Start by looking at the sunniest patches, being reptiles that’s where they’ll be warming themselves. These prehistoric-looking creatures are stunningly beautiful, with alternating dark and light rings covering their tails, teal bellies and all manner of other colors and patterns on their bodies. I saw one iguana that appeared to be at least six feet long from nose to tail.

Another ubiquitous animal here is the humble chicken. I love the soft clucking sounds they make while foraging for food. Not so soft is the jarring squawk of a rooster in the pre-dawn hours, however there are worse ways to be awakened. After a couple of days here I get used to it and the rooster’s crow becomes just another part of the soundscape of Yelapa.

Of course dogs are everywhere too. I was happy to see that most of them look healthy and well cared for. Consistent with the vibe of Yelapa they are laid back tail waggers. At dinner one night a trio of musicians were performing. Throughout their set various dogs hopped on and off the stage, one even briefly howled along with the music.

The town continues upriver from the beach and into the jungle for a kilometer or so where the cobblestone streets gradually give way to dirt and that’s where our place is.  Strolling around this part of town gives us a real sense for the rhythms of regular Yelapa life. There are a couple of small, open-air restaurants, tiendas that sell just the essentials, a smattering of modest homes and an elementary school; the children in their school uniforms laugh at us as we walk past. It’s peaceful and quiet and feels good to be immersed in the culture of this place. The people are friendly  and welcoming, we greet each other with smiles and buenos dias. 

Every tropical place I’ve ever visited has at least one spectacular waterfall that you can hike to and Yelapa is no exception. The trail starts right outside of our casita and follows the river through the outskirts of town and into the jungle. It’s a moderate five mile roundtrip hike, mostly flat but with a few challenging uphill sections. Bird song and the bubbling of the river provided a soothing soundtrack. At one point we found ourselves surrounded by a flock of scarlet macaws squawking in the trees above us. Butterflies of all colors, patterns and sizes also accompanied us on the hike. There was one the size of my palm and translucent white, one with a monarch-like sea green pattern, a black one with horizontal yellow stripes, one the color of a tangerine and at least a half dozen other species, each one spectacular in its own right. The waterfall was everything we had hoped for: a gushing torrent spilling over the hillside into a deep, green pool. Our much deserved swim felt like a baptism.

As if the peaceful solitude and natural beauty of Yelapa isn’t enough, the food is fabulous too. There’s nothing fancy about the cuisine, just simple, delicious, fresh food prepared lovingly. The fish we ate for dinner was most likely swimming in the ocean that morning. The deep orange hue of the egg yolks told me all I needed to know about their freshness. My absolute favorite thing about meals in Latin America are the tortillas. They’re made fresh right on the spot and served hot off the griddle. There is simply nothing like them anywhere else.

Yelapa is a timeless place, a throwback to a gentler, simpler time, a time that’s long gone in the United States. The chaos and insanity of modern life simply melted away once we stepped ashore. I felt like I never wanted to leave. For the short time we were here I was able to catch my breath, gain some perspective on life in the US and realize that there are saner and more peaceful ways to live.